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March 2004
Updated July 2006

Krabi and Koh Lanta
The author, a Bangkok expat, records his favorable impressions of Krabi and Koh Lanta. He attempts to find a term that expresses Krabi's stunning topography and contemplates the differences between East and West Railay Beaches.

Koh Lanta

About 4 am I was awoken by the sound of a drunk Scandinavian singing old Viking songs. Apparently he had just arrived back at the bungalows and, feeling good after a night of partying, decided to let loose with a few old war hymns. I considered the repression and conformity that must exist in the Scandinavian society and the role that alcohol must play in relieving stress and inhibitions. I considered the rhythmic hypnotic quality of the tune and that his voice was not that great but not that bad either. I considered the strong racial consciousness that Scandinavians must have, being almost a completely homogeneous population and how this might have led to isolationism and nationalism particularly in light of Viking pagan mythology.

Then as my mind switched from the the alpha waves of peaceful slumber into the beta waves of crass waking reality, my mind rearranged things as they should be and I realized that I was not listening to old Viking songs at all. I was listening to the early morning call to prayers at the local mosque.


Rock climbing at Railay

There were Muslims everywhere in Koh Lanta. But they were not the black hijab-wearing Arabs I saw on Arab street in Bangkok. These Muslims wore bright colors - the men wore sarongs and the women were pretty with their colorful head scarves and clothings. The seemed smiley and gentle.

Koh Lanta is the latest island in Thailand that has boomed in development for foreigners purchasing second homes or vacations. Most of the foreigners are Scandinavians or Germans. For them, the land here is cheap. Before Koh Lanta, there were booms in Samui and Phuket. Now it's Lanta and Koh Chang. Clearly the way to make money is to find the next island, as there are hundreds of them and buy the land before the destination gets popular. Most of the unknown islands don't even have electricity yet. If you get in on the ground floor, you could be a real estate mogul by the time of the next boom.

Karst Topography

My favorite Lonely Planet description concerning Krabi is the scenery which they describe as being replete with "Karst Topography." It sounds like some avant-garde painting school. I can picture the art dealer saying,"This painting is an original Hans Humpner, notice the chaotic brush strokes that epitomize the naive angst of the Karst Topography School of 19th century Impressionism".


Cave Entrance East Railay Beach

Although I was sure it is the technically correct term, I had to run to dictionary.com to figure what it means. Dictionary.com gives the following definition for Karst: "An area of irregular limestone in which erosion has produced fissures, sinkholes, underground streams, and caverns".

It's true. The landscape of Krabi has cliffs and caves and stalagmites and huge cliff-like structures popping straight up out of the ground as if the earth got horny for the moon and popped a series of boners. The Karst topography is beautiful and stark, like some other planet with sheer cliffs and craggy overhangs creating underwater caverns with low hanging stalagmites dangling over head. It reminded me of old Yes album covers. In fact I would like to take the liberty here to coin a new term that I think expresses the natural rock formation better than "Karst Topography". I would like to call them "Yes Bonography".

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