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March 2003
Updated July 2006

The Sculpture Park in Nong Khai

Part 2

The current location of Wat Kaek features nagas, Buddhas, depictions of birth, death and characters out of the Ramayana and the Hindu pantheons. The sculptures feature passive immobile faces that some have likened to Polynesian stone carvings. More likely, this is due to the limitations of the chosen medium - concrete - and the underlying motivations of the artists: The statue are meant to depict moral and spiritual lessons, more so than for aesthetic appeal.

Nevertheless, many of the statues are breathtaking. 100-foot-tall Buddhas, Shivas, Vishnus with multi-headed cobras entwining their limbs, a wheel of karma that you enter by walking through the mouth of a giant skull, Hanuman the monkey god and his cast of friends.

Typically the statues will have an inscription explaining the story behind them. Unfortunately, for non-Thai, the explanation is in Thai and not English.

The main building, which hosts smaller sculptures and the sarcophagus of Luang Pu, is a spooky place. Pictures and photos of spiritual leaders are interspersed with artifacts form the spirit world, tales of death and decay and reincarnation. The main hall is dark even in the daytime and generates shivers and hushed tones.

The tomb of Luang Pu demonstrates the bizarre devotion of Luang Pu's followers, who have saved articles from the leader's life and death, his sick bed, his wheelchair and his old clothes. These items, the sarcophagus, and the feeling of the place as a hole can raise the hairs on the back of your neck, One would not want to be stuck in this mausoleum alone and at night.

Admission to Wat Kaek is 10 baht.A round-trip tuk tuk from Nong Khai is 80 baht. Second class sleeper train from Bangkok to Nong Khai is 600 baht.

According to legend, Luang Pu met is teacher while strolling in the forest one day. Luang Pu accidentally fell into a sinkhole and fell into his teacher's lap. Luang Pu stayed in the case for ten years absorbing the teaching and wisdom of his teaching. Luang Pu's first sculpture park was located in Laos, but it was dismantled under orders of the communist regime.

To post your comments, please email bangkokjoe2000@yahoo.com.


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