The
embalmed body of the "Venerable Grandfather"
otherwise known as “Luang Pu” lies
at the far end of a dark hall lined with Hindu
-Buddhist statuettes depicting the various stages
in the cycle of life, death and rebirth. The building
housing the sarcophagus is surrounded by a garden
filled with huge concrete statues, and the place
as a whole is called Wat Kaek.

The
creator and founder of Wat Kaek, Luang Pu, was
a Laotian who, had he not become a spiritual leader,
may have been successful directing Friday the
Thirteenth movies and other low budget horror
films. This place gives you the creeps.
Wat
Kaek, Luang Pu's magnum opus, is, on the most
superficial level, a park located in Nong Khai,
and filled with bizarre concrete statues depicting
Hindu - Buddhist characters re-enacting scenes
from spiritual texts. Surrounding by hawkers selling
trinkets, the casual visitor may not realize that
Wat Kaek is more than just a statue park. Some
consider it a portal between mundane waking reality
and the timeless spiritual universe existing in
humanity's collective unconsciousness.
To
get to Wat Kaek, you must first arrive in Nong
Khai, an atmospheric Northeast Thailand city on
the banks of the mighty Mekong River. Situated
across from Laos, Nong Khai is known for its relaxed
pace of life, its oily river fish and as a border
crossing to hordes of adventurers, smugglers and
wandering souls.

Our
travel began with the second class air-con sleeper
car out of Bangkok, a twelve-hour trip to Nong
Khai. After a fitful sleep, we arrived early in
the morning at Nong Khai. Wat Kaek's full and
proper name is Sala Keaw Ku and is located a short
distance from Nong Khai's center.
Luang
Pu Bunleua Sirarat, ("Luang Pu") was
never officially ordained as a monk. He was more
of a charismatic leader of his own sect. His teachings
were based on traditional Hindu and Buddhist scriptures,
but some considered him a heretic. Luang Pu trained
his disciples to craft these huge statues depicting
Buddhist and Hindu tales and characters and they
are rendered in graphic and eerie fashion.

Luang
Pu, who always wore matching white trousers and
shirt, his health failing in later life, was carried
in a wheelbarrow by his followers in the later
years of his life so he could personally supervise
the statue castings and sculpture.
According
to legend, Luang Pu met his teacher while strolling
in the forest one day. Luang Pu accidentally fell
into a sinkhole and fell into his teacher's lap.
Luang Pu stayed in the case for ten years absorbing
the teaching and wisdom of his teaching. Luang
Pu's first sculpture park was located in Laos,
but it was dismantled under orders of the communist
regime