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February 14 2006
Updated July 2006

River Swim in Nong Khai

(How to Drown in the Mekong in 5 Easy Steps)

Part 3

I was trying, unsuccessfully, to keep my panic in check, one stroke at a time, breathe deeply, nothing will happen, sooner or later I will make it to shore. My blood pressure was escalating to its outer limits and my heart was bursting out of my chest. I was fighting against the current and against pure fear. Coming back to shore was completely different than swimming out. Swimming out was easy.

There is a construction site further down river; they are building some type of river walk on the outer side of the immigration pier and it was there that I saw my salvation. It was a metal cable that was attached to a concrete embankment at the far end and to the shore on the other. That cable was like a good Samaritan appearing from out of the wilderness. I braced myself and, one stroke at a time, slowly I edged toward the cable. The pressure of the water was increasing and my energy was draining. I had to make it to the cable before the current pushed me beyond it. There was nothing else to grab. Progress was slow. My breathing was fast and hard and my legs were beginning to cramp. Finally, it was near and I reached out and was able to grab the cable.

It was at this point, cable in hand, and holding myself aginst the current, that I was able to fully feel the immense force I was dealing with. I had to pull myself forward along the cable and I accomplished this by pulling myself hand over hand along the length of the cable. The process was slow and strenuous, but swimming, by comparison, was a futile effort. Pulling myself along the cable one arm at a time was like reeling in a 200-pound fish. The current made each pull a great exertion. I would pull myself along briefly, then rest and take a few breaths and then start again. Slowly I made it closer to shore.


Call an Ambulance

Eventually I reached the muddy bottom and I felt safe again. I dragged myself up and looked at the sandy hill I had to climb to reach the road. It was just a small hill but it felt like a mountain. My heart was still pounding and my skin was flushed red with exhaustion. I crawled, I didn’t climb up to the top. I just wanted to lie down. But there were crowds of Thai people looking at me and I couldn’t loose face. I struggled to retain a shred of dignity as I walked along. My objective was no longer to swim to Laos, it was now to try and walk upright without crumpling over on the side of the road. After about seventy five meters, I reached the Thai immigration pier and I found a grassy spot. I vomited copiously.

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