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January 2003
Updated July 2006

Pai Mountain Lodge, Bungalows with Fireplaces

Part 2

The restaurants have not reached the standards of other tourist destinations in Thailand. We went to a steak house that informed us that they did not have steak today. The other restaurant, while tasty, was slow and the service-people, while meaning, seemed a bit overloaded. This is of course understandable for a town that just experienced a tourist boom and its infrastructure has not fully kept pace. In my opinion, there is a big demand for restaurants in Pai, particularly, Italian and vegetarian.


Reading some deep thoughts
from a dead poet

Going a little outside of Thailand, you find the hot springs. They bubble and gurgle with sulfurous vapors at the top of a hill and then slowly feed into a stream, cooling them down somewhat; the water is hot - no joke. Many people soak their feet and some, their whole bodies in the mineral water. For fussy people, private camps have man-made pools that pipe in the hot water and you can sit and boil for a small fee. We checked out Thaipai Spa camping and it looked clean, nicely landscaped and boasted several different hot tubs around the premises. However, when push came to shove, we soaked in the actual hot springs in the public park that was free of charge.

Massages, as with restaurants, were also highly variable. We received some skilful massages at the Ice House, which is across from Mr. Jan's. Mr. Jan's has an herbal steam room, but only by appointment and for a minimum of three people. The Ice House masseurs-proprietors are Shan people. They speak their own language, and in fact one of the unique features of Pai is that you hear a number of rare dialects such as Lisu, Shan and Karen. The people at the Ice House seem to know what they were doing and provided good affordable herbal massages.


Our cabin has a fireplace

After our frustration with the restaurant in Pai, we decided to cook for ourselves in our cottage bungalows. There is an interesting market that opens up in the town center at about three p.m. Interesting items include goat cheese and milk, Shan tortillas made out of yellow bean, Muslim bakery items, fresh meats and assorted vegetables.

We arrived back in our cottage after a brisk motorcycle ride through Lisu Village and stoked up the fireplace. Clearly overestimating the amount for time required to cook our cornucopia of meats and vegetables, the food color of the night was black and the taste was charcoal-y.

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Pai Mountain Lodge
Sexpat Factor : 1/5
Backpacker Factor: 2/5
Thai Style Rating : 3/5
Baht meter: How Expensive?: 2/5