Pai is different form other resort or tourist towns in Thailand for a few reasons. First of all, it’s smaller and less developed. Mountain scenes just don't attract the same interest as seaside resorts because you can’t work on your tan and disco music is prohibited by law, thus ruling out the possibility of any go-go bars. For similar reasons, you don’t have the massive influx of migrant workers from poorer parts of Thailand and surrounding countries nor do you have the foreign carpetbaggers and scammers that other tourist places can attract.

Our bungalow with the balcony overlooking the river

Pai has a more natural feel, with activities like hiking, visiting hot springs and river rafting. There are plenty of hill-tribe people in native dress, going about their activities and the exotic flavor is further enhanced by the local Muslim community. The hill tribes wear colorful red, black and purple patterned clothing made of natural fibers, all very third-world-looking. The Muslims wear black or white robes and skullcaps and look strict. There are other minority-communities living there too. The Galloping Chinese are harder to discern but they speak Yunanese and have their own spciy cuisine. The only Yunanese restaurant we found was on the winding road up to the Pai Mountain Lodge.

The Yim Happy restaurant serves their version of Mexican food in a garden setting. Separate bamboo salas are provided for a more intimate dining experience. There are also many bamboo treehouses with exotic lightings, as if the owner has been to one too many raves on Ko Phangan. The food is tasty, an interesting Thai version of the Mexican. They only have soft tortillas and no chips, but overall it was a pretty tasty interpretation of Mexican food in a pleasant garden setting.

Christine Italian

I was a little skeptical of this restaurant because they were playing some electronic new age music when I came in and I thought they might fall asleep before the food was served, but they switched to jazz vocals and that brightened my mood. I asked the owner if he put M.S.G. in his food and he scowled and looked insulted. Christine has all the standard Italian fare and they provide a tasty and innovating touch to it. The steak was slightly seasoned and seemed to be good quality meat. Salad had a light dressing and the grilled vegetables were also nicely done. The spaghetti alio oglio pepperocini had no visible peppers in it but was spicy just the same. The atmosphere of the restaurant was candle-lit and casual, but the same could be said for most of the restaurants here.