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Journey
to Koh Chang
Contributed by Trevor Ranges
Article
Summary: This article, contributed by Trevor Ranges,
details the author's attempt to find a suitable beachside
bungalow amidst encroaching development in Koh Chang
National Park.
Lying on the damp mattress in our small private hut,
I was not particularly concerned with the mildewy
smell, the mosquito-infested bathroom, or the disappointing
mediocrity of the beach. My girlfriend Nat and I had
left Bangkok on the 11:30 pm bus for 5 hours of fitful
sleep and had arrived in Trat early enough to watch
the sun rise up over the nearby Cambodian border.
Groggily we jumped on the 6:30 am ferry, dazed but
excited by the great green island rising out of the
sea like a mighty elephant, after which it is named.
An hour later we reached Center Point; a simple concrete
pier, a small puddle filled dirt parking lot, and
an expanse of jungle beyond. Next, a 20-minute roller
coaster ride up, across, and over the winding peaks
of Thailand's second largest island, packed like sardines
in the back of a covered pick-truck (songtaew) to
Haad Sai Khao, White Sand Beach. Finally, after a
15-minute walk along the beach, burdened with bags,
we arrived at our destination, Haad Sai Khao Resort,
Koh Chang, and all I wanted to do was sleep.
However, the heat of the mid-morning sun and the overall
unpleasantness of our lodging compared to the possibilities
of the day roused us from our lassitude. Soon we were
lathered with Banana Boat, clad in our swimsuits,
sunglasses, and little else, and we set out on what
we believed would be a relaxing morning stroll.
Despite the misnomer regarding its color and the extremely
narrow width of the beach, the granular sand was littered
only with palm fronds and coconuts, and the crystalline
waters lapped at our tired city feet. We found the
northern end of Haad Sai Khao pleasantly relaxing,
much less developed than the cramped coast that began
with the neat row of huts at KC Bungalow and then
exploded into mini-villages of air conditioned, swimming
pool, satellite TV, big-baht, western luxury.
While many of these resorts seemed ideally suitable
for pampering oneself and the variety of caf?s and
bars seemed adequate to support a vacations worth
of dining, socializing, and revelry, we had come to
Koh Chang, Marine National Park, to surround ourselves
with natural beauty, not to overindulge ourselves
in voluptuary pleasure.
We continued our walk towards the southern tip of
the beach and as the sandy shore slipped into the
sea we walked along a stone retaining wall, onto some
cool green grass, and then up a stone path leading
us into the pleasant and natural surroundings of the
Paloma Cliff Resort. We found the resort more aesthetically
pleasing than many of the others, and we had agreed
that we were now officially searching for more suitable
accommodation, but it was still early, we were rejuvenated
by the walk, and we decided to continue south to the
next beach; Haad Klong Phrao.
Having intended only a walk on the beach, my bare
feet blistered on the blacktop as we ventured up the
main road, passed frequently by seemingly smarter
travelers on rental motorbikes. Nearing the entrance
to Klong Plu waterfall (where we would enjoy an incredibly
relaxing and refreshing afternoon several days later)
we were picked up by a songtaew and driven to Haad
Klong Phrao.
We found ourselves in the "lobby" of the Haad Klong
Phrao Resort, an open-air, single room through which
we needed to pass in order to walk directly onto the
beach. The resort itself consisted of many upscale
bungalows, innocuously set around a large pond. While
more appealing to us than the fancier white sands
resorts, we were looking for something a bit more
natural, more primitive, more genuine. We politely
inquired about the room rates and were surprised to
learn that camping was possible on their grounds.
We mused about bringing the tent along next time as
we came out onto the beach.
Here the sand was soft, and fine, and white. It whispered
muffled "barks" as it gently cushioned our steps,
slipping silkily between our toes and caking our feet
like powdered sugar. Rays of golden sunlight danced
upon the glistening, pellucid water; our shadows walked
hand in hand along the idyllic and unoccupied coast.
12 hours after leaving Bangkok in search of paradise,
we were imminently close.
As we walked we came upon an estuary, where the high
tide had crossed over the beach allowing a river to
carve out an opening into the sea, and our path to
the south was once again impeded. Looking across the
waterway, a majestic palm reached out and over the
powdery white sand, arching gracefully as if it were
yearning to drink from the sea. Beyond that, the austere
shacks of Tha Le Bungalows sat quietly, so silent
and peaceful you could practically see the sun slowly
bleaching the already worn and weathered huts. Further
down the coast, more palms swayed lazily above the
strand, beckoning us to come and frolic on their deserted
shore.
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post your comments, please email trevorranges@gmail.com.
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