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Urban Scrawl- Waikiki

Contributed by Trevor Ranges

Bangkok expat, Trevor Ranges, muses upon how Khao Sarn Road, Bangkok, Thailand is to Waikiki, Honolulu, Hawaii.

To a large degree Waikiki Beach is to Hawaii what Khao Sarn Road is to Bangkok. To the uninitiated each may appear suitably exotic and provide ample entertainment in a geographically small area. These travelers, happily ignorant, never leave the confines of these places, while others, based on the disparaging things they have heard, avoid them like the plague. Even many locals tend to regard these two locales as over-produced and inauthentic anomalies in otherwise majestic lands. But, predictably perhaps, like Khao Sarn road, there is more to Waikiki than its reputation proffers.

In Waikiki, unlike Khao Sarn road, you are extremely unlikely to stumble across backpackers dread-locking their hair and purchasing bootleg DVD's. Waikiki typically plays host to throngs of Japanese tourists burdened with Prada shopping bags and obese, lobster-red Nebraskan couples wearing matching, hideously patterned Hawaiian shirts. Indeed, Kalakaua Avenue is a virtual Rodeo Drive of upscale shopping boutiques interspersed with stores hawking 10-for-a-dollar souvenir t-shirts and dancing, dashboard hula dolls.

However, both naysayers and supporters generally agree that Waikiki Beach has a very tasteful atmosphere. Opposite the storefronts, a recently beautified, meandering sidewalk runs along the crowded, yet pleasant strip of sand. Every hundred yards or so, statues of famous Hawaiian Monarchs stand proudly amidst succulent smelling flower gardens, and surfers and spear fisherman are honored amidst spraying fountains of water. Towards the end of the strip, in the foreground of Honolulu's iconic Diamond Head Crater, a large movie screen is erected each weekend where couples and families gather on beach blankets to enjoy an evening film.

It is here on the beach that Waikiki is best appreciated. Waikiki is internationally renowned as one of the best places in the world to learn to surf. You can rent a surfboard from an old-skool Hawaiian "beach-boy" who has been teaching visitors to surf since the most recent renaissance of this sport of kings occurred in the 1950's. Perhaps take a sunset sail on a catamaran that serves up one dollar Mai Tais. Or better yet, walk along the beach until you hear the music of Hawaiian singer Henry Kapono rocking the Barefoot Beach Bar at Dukes Canoe Club.

Named for the famous Hawaiian Olympic swimming champion, legendary surfer, and all-around hero, Duke Kahanamouku, Dukes is the spot to chill out in Waikiki after a day in the surf and sun. You can shower off the salt water, sidle up to the bar in nothing more than your swimsuit, and mingle with yuppie newlyweds, middle aged mid-westerners, local beach bunnys, and bronzed surfers. Dukes is a veritable utopia for people watching, where you can knock back exotic cocktails while scores of surfers glide in from the ocean that serves as the backdrop for the band.

Obviously if you were to spend your entire holiday within the clearly tourist oriented areas of either Khao Sarn or Waikiki you would come away with a mere glimpse of the true beauty and adventure which lie beyond. However, like Khao Sarn, Waikiki is another facet of a unique and diverse travel destination. Acceptable as a base of operations or enjoyable for a day or two of convenience and familiarity, Waikiki offers more than its stereotype suggests. Then get OUT of there and see the real Hawai'i.

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To post your comments, please email trevorranges@gmail.com.


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